From the 2019 vintage and disgorged in September 2024 with a dosage of four grams per liter, the latest rendition of Geoffroy’s NV Rosé de Saignée Cumières Premier Cru—as always—derives exclusively from Cumières. The only stage at which this cuvée encounters oak is during its 70 to 80 hours of maceration in open vats. Thereafter, it matures in enameled vats with very little in the way of solids, and this provides a point of distinction from many other saignée-style rosés in Champagne. It leaps from the glass with an expressive bouquet of grapefruit zest, blood orange and redcurrant mingling with nuances of red flowers and clove. On the palate, it is full-bodied, rich and broad-shouldered—intense and textural—with ripe yet vibrant acidity, culminating in a long, perfumed finish, where subtly bitter phenolics assert themselves. This is not a wine suited for casual aperitifs; rather, it is best savored alongside hearty fare such as red meats or tuna tartare, where its depth can be fully appreciated.
Geoffroy, formerly known as René Geoffroy before relocating in 2008 to Aÿ, where it now occupies the grand buildings of the village's former cooperative at the heart of the village, is led by Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, who began his winemaking journey alongside his father, René, during the 1987 harvest. In 2024, after gaining experience in Burgundy and other wine regions abroad, Jean-Baptiste’s daughter, Sacha Geoffroy, returned to the family estate. She joined her father with a well-placed emphasis—quite rightly—on viticulture.
The estate’s holdings span 14.5 hectares, with the majority (90%) located in Cumières, where steep, south-facing slopes—typically rich in clay—lend the wines an inherently ripe but chalky style. The remainder of the vines lies in nearby Damery and Hautvillers.
For over three decades, Geoffroy has managed its vineyards without herbicides, favoring mechanical cultivation and producing its own compost. Since 2018, a biodynamic approach has been adopted across approximately five hectares. During harvest, local pickers—paid by the hour—place an emphasis on sorting in the vineyards.
Jean-Baptiste employs two traditional Coquard presses, ensuring fruit is pressed within an hour of picking. The estate produces around 100,000 bottles annually, relying exclusively on estate-grown fruit, with no purchased grapes or must. Fermentation is carried out with native yeasts, and vinification takes place in both enameled vats (ranging from 30 to 50 hectoliters) and wooden vessels—primarily 600-liter demi-muids, newly sourced from Tonnellerie Radoux and Tonnellerie de Champagne and reused over extended periods. Secondhand 228- and 350-liter barrels from Burgundy, along with Stockinger casks, enter into the equation too.
Élevage typically lasts for 11 months on the lees, although duration varies by cuvée, as illustrated in the tasting notes. A perpetual reserve, initiated in 1970, is employed for the non-vintage Expression cuvée. While malolactic fermentation is generally not encouraged, it occasionally occurs either partially or entirely, as seen in certain 2018 and 2020 wines. Sulfite usage is minimal, with small additions post-pressing and after fermentation—amounting to approximately 10 milligrams per liter of free sulfites. The wines undergo substantial aging sur lattes. These are typically broad-shouldered, vinous wines, with rich flavor profiles underpinned by incisive acidity.
